The Pizza Plot: Debunking the half-baked theories of Pizza

Pizza is one of the world’s most beloved foods, but its origins are shrouded in mystery. Food historian, Alberto Grandi, sparked outrage in Italy by asking, ‘Is pizza more American than Italian?’. And that’s just one of many debates: Did it originate in Naples or Rome?, Was the first crust made with sourdough?, Did a Neapolitan pizzaiolo make Pizza Margherita to honour the Queen? It’s time to set the record straight.

Ancient Beginnings: Flatbreads Before Pizza

Long before the first pizzeria, people across ancient civilizations baked flatbreads. The Greeks, Egyptians, and Persians all had their versions. Some were topped with oils, herbs, or cheese—an early hint of things to come.

A passage in Virgil’s Aeneid even describes Trojans eating a meal of thin flatbreads with toppings. While it wasn’t quite pizza, it shows how the idea of bread as a base for toppings existed long before Naples made it famous.

Was Pizza originally Sourdough?

Before commercial yeast, all pizza was made using natural fermentation—aka sourdough. This slow, traditional method creates a more complex flavour and a crispy, airy crust. Today, sourdough pizza is making a comeback, and for good reason. We’re excited to introduce our new Sourdough Pizza Kit, which lets you make authentic sourdough pizza from scratch at home. It’s a return to tradition with a modern twist.

Neapolitan vs. Roman Pizza: Which Came First?

Neapolitan pizza, with its soft, chewy crust and simple ingredients, is often considered the original. But Rome had its own version—thinner, crispier, and just as beloved. Which came first? Most historians credit Naples with inventing modern pizza, but Romans would argue their flatbreads were already close to what we eat today.

White Pizza vs. Red: Which One is Older?

Before tomatoes arrived from the Americas, early pizzas were white. These were topped with lard, garlic, cheese, and anchovies. Once tomatoes became common in the 18th century, red pizzas like Marinara and Margherita emerged. So, yes—white pizza came first.

The First Three Pizzas

The first truly recognisable pizzas were baked in Naples. Here are three of the earliest:

• Pizza Bianca (White Pizza) – No tomatoes, just cheese, garlic, and sometimes anchovies.
• Pizza Marinara – Tomato sauce, garlic, oregano, and olive oil. Named after the fishermen (marinai) who ate it.
• Pizza Margherita – Tomato, mozzarella, and basil—supposedly created in honour of Queen Margherita in 1889. The story goes that Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Naples, where pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito crafted a pizza in her honour, featuring the colours of the Italian flag. It’s a charming tale, but historians now believe the letter in which the Queen supposedly praised the pizza was forged. No evidence of such a letter exists, leaving the true origins of Pizza Margherita in question.

The famous Pizza Margherita, topped with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala and garnished with three leaves of basil.

Pizzerias: An American Invention?

This is where things get controversial. While Italians were eating pizza in the streets, it was in America that pizzerias as we know them today first took off. Italian immigrants in New York and Chicago opened the first sit-down pizza restaurants, popularising pizza beyond its Neapolitan roots.

Does this mean pizza is more American than Italian? Italians would be horrified at the idea. But there’s no denying that America helped shape modern pizza culture, introducing new styles, toppings, and the global pizza craze.

The Final Slice

Pizza has taken many forms over the centuries, from ancient flatbreads to the Neapolitan classic and beyond. While America played a role in popularising it worldwide, its heart and soul remain in Italy. And for those who seek the real origins? We’ll always come back to sourdough—where it all began.

Want to learn how to make pizza with a home oven? Check out our Pizza Making Kit, designed to help you craft the perfect pizza from scratch.

Making homemade pizza has never been easier with our kit and homemade sourdough pizza recipe.

Further Reading on the History of Pizza

If you’re hungry for more on pizza’s fascinating history, check out these books:

• “Pizza: A Global History” by Carol Helstosky – A comprehensive look at pizza’s journey from Naples to the world.
• “The Pizza Bible” by Tony Gemignani – A masterclass on different pizza styles and their origins.
• “Naples at Table: Cooking in Campania” by Arthur Schwartz – Explores Neapolitan cuisine, including its most famous dish.
• “Pizza Quest” by Peter Reinhart – A passionate search for the world’s best pizza.